Welcome to On Tap! Each week in this recurring feature, we’ll take an in-depth look at one of the many beers available in the crowded North Texas brew scene. The goal here is to look at these area beers without our local goggles on, and to wonder aloud, “Is this beer good or do I just like it because it’s local?” Let’s find out! Cheers!

This week I sipped on Coffee Blonde Ale from Trinity Forest Brewing Company. Fast Facts about Coffee Blonde Ale

Style: SHV (Spice, Herb, Vegetable) ABV: 5.6% International Bitterness Units (IBUs): 25 Color: Orange-Gold Proper Glassware: Shaker Pint Availability: Draught & Cans Overview

This is a review I never intended to do. There were a couple of reasons for this. First, I’d already reviewed Trinity Forest Blonde Ale which serves as the base beer for this coffee brew. A second is that over the history of the On Tap column, the four contributing writers have done a ridiculous number of SHV beers and I’ve been trying to widen the variety of reviewed styles a bit.

However, a funny thing happened at my weekend beer tasting.

I ordered Trinity Forest Blonde but the Coffee Blonde is what showed up. To be clear, this is a distribution issue, not a brewery issue. The labels are so close in appearance that my pre-show inventory check didn’t turn up the mistake which left me playing the part of the very confused host when several people told me they smelled coffee in a blonde ale. Talk about embarrassing.

But with a story like that going for it, I felt compelled to review it. Background on SHV

The general idea of an SHV beer is that the brewer adds an ingredient from the herb, spice or vegetable families, in this case coffee, to a well-defined base style. Coconut in a porter or hazelnut in a brown ale are just a couple of classic examples. The addition should be an accent, and either enhance or complement the base style. What it shouldn’t do is run over the base style to the point that the base beer is unrecognizable. Appearance

Coffee Blonde pours a deep orange-gold color with a low, off-white head. Both the body and the head are darker than a blonde ale should be but that can be excused because of the coffee infusion which has had an obvious effect. The beer itself is like a great piece of lingerie — transparent enough to hint at what’s on the other side but not at all see through. The head doesn’t even act like it wants to hang around and recedes to a smooth, flat surface within a couple of minutes of pouring.

This is where I realized the mistake at the tasting on Saturday. There is no mistaking the warm, roasty aroma of java in Coffee Blonde. The smell is totally at odds with orange-gold color of this beer, a fact that keeps fucking with my senses in a big way. Under the coffee though, the sweet, soft bready malt aromas are clearly present. As it warms, the coffee comes on strong enough to make anything else sometimes hard to find. Flavor

Here again, the coffee in Coffee Blonde comes to the fore. Where the original was balanced to the sweet side and the bread dominated, this slides over to the bitter side and the coffee owns the show. In fact, while it isn’t overly bitter, the coffee is enough to muscle the bread back into a corner where it becomes an afterthought. The finish starts a touch sweet but that soon fades after swallowing, leaving only the rich, burnt roastiness of the coffee. Mouthfeel

Coffee Blonde retains much of the original smooth silkiness. After all the coffee I’ve described on the nose and tongue, you might think this would have a certain acidity to it but no. The cleanliness of the original is, however, gone and the carbonation less obvious than normal for a blonde ale. Overall Impression

While Trinity Forest Coffee Blonde is well executed as an SHV beer it isn’t really my cup of tea. I have a hard time with the infusion of coffee flavors into a lighter style of beer like a blonde ale.

Some of this is appearance based as my sense rebel just a bit at the visual of a light-colored beer alongside the smells and tastes of coffee. A coffee porter or stout is fine but a blonde? Not so much. I have this same issue with beers in the so-called “white stout” category as well.

The rest of it is just about the juxtaposition of the separate flavors and the inclusion of such a naturally bitter infusion like coffee. It doesn’t feel like a natural pairing to me and don’t feel like the coffee either enhances or compliments the base style.

The resulting beer does score well against the SHV style with regards to execution. The blonde ale underneath the coffee is mostly recognizable as such and the coffee is obviously an accent to it rather than the main thrust of the beverage.

I’m also all for experimentation and trying new things which Trinity Forest has done here. That adventurous spirit is a massive part of what sets the American craft beer industry apart of many other parts of the world. Score

On a scale of 1 to 10, I give Trinity Forest Brewing Company Coffee Blonde Ale a 6.

All photos by Bob Floyd. Previous On Tap Reviews:

• Revolver’s Sangre y Miel: 10. • Lakewood Brewing’s Salted Caramel Temptress: 10. • Peticolas’ Royal Scandal: 10. • Community’s Mosaic IPA: 10. • Deep Ellum Brewing Company’s Freak Flag: 10. • Peticolas’ Velvet Hammer: 10. • Collective Brewing Project’s Boysenbarrel: 10. • Community’s Barrel-Aged Legion: 10. • Community’s Legion: 10. • Martin House River Horse: 9.75. • Four Bullets’ What Are the Odds: 9.5. • BrainDead’s Fill in the Blancs: 9.5. • Oak Highlands’ Freaky Deaky: 9.5. • 903 Brewers’ Birthday Sasquatch: 9.5. • TUPPS Brewery’s Full Grown Scallywag: 9.5. • On Rotation’s Flocculation of Seagulls: 9.5. • Braindead Brewing’s P-Wing: 9.5. • Lakewood Brewing Company’s Coconut Temptress: 9.5. • Deep Ellum’s Barrel Aged Four Swords: 9.5. • Lakewood’s Saint Dymphna: 9.5. • Peticolas’ Lost Epic: 9.5. • Community’s Ascension Porter: 9.5. • Lakewood’s Temptress: 9.5. • Lakewood’s Goatman: 9.5. • Community’s Public Ale: 9.5. • Peticolas’ Thrilla in Brazilla: 9.5. • Collective Brewing Project’s SMaSHY: 9.25 • BrainDead Brewing’s Galactic Federation of Might: 9.25 • On Rotation’s Lingonberry Sahti: 9.25. • Martin House Brewing Company’s The Morrigan: 9.25. • On Rotation’s Jalapeno Saison: 9. • Woodcreek’s Bourbon Barrel Bock: 9. • Manhattan Project Beer Company’s Christmas Coalition: 9 • Peticolas’ Same Time Next Year: 9. • Lakewood’s Double Chocolate Temptress: 9. • Braindead Brewing Company’s Dr. Dreipricot: 9. • Manhattan Project’s Black Matter: 9. • Lakewood’s Wild Manimal: 9. • Manhattan Project Beer Company’s Necessary Evil: 9. • Revolver’s Blood & Honey: 9. • Funky Picnic’s Funny Accent: 9. • Martin House’s Imperial Texan: 9. • Division Brewing’s Smokin’ Jack-o’s: 9. • Community Beer Co.’s Medical Grade Haze: 9. • Wild Acre’s Mondlift: 9. • Community’s Trinity Tripel: 9. • Outfit Brewing’s Cole: 9. • Peticolas’ Irish Goodbye: 9. • Four Corners’ Block Party Porter: 9. • Bankhead Brewing Co.’s Giggle Water: 9. • Cedar Creek’s Belgian Dubbel: 9. • Manhattan Project’s Wise Monkeys: 9. • Cedar Creek’s Poblano Paradise: 8.75. • Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s Oktoberfest: 8.75. • Lakewood Brewing Company IPA: 8.75. • Small Brewpub’s Black Pepper Pils: 8.5. • Siren Rock’s The Magnetic Muse: 8.5. • Peticolas’ Ghost Of Alfred Brown: 8.5. • Deep Ellum’s Easy Peasy IPA: 8.5. • Community Beer Company’s Passiflora: 8.5. • Deep Ellum’s Oak Cliff Coffee Ale: 8.5. • Community Beer Company’s Wit ‘N Wild: 8.5. • Lakewood’s Rock Ryder: 8.5. • 903’s Czech Style Pilsner: 8.5. • Rahr’s Bourbon Barrel Aged Winter Warmer: 8.5. • Lakewood’s Raspberry Temptress: 8.5. • Peticolas’ Prime Minister: 8.25. • Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s Winter Warmer: 8.25. • Noble Rey Brewing’s Barampus: 8.25. • Martin House’s Possum Kingdom Pilsner: 8.25. • Community Beer Company’s Brett’s Get It On: 8.25. • Bankhead Brewing Company’s Aoogah!: 8.25. • Lakewood’s Peach Artsy Tarsty: 8.25. • Peticolas Brewing Company’s Clandestine: 8. • Lakewood Brewing Grand Allowance: 8. • HopFusion Ale Works’ Hairpin: 8 • Peticolas’ Golden Opportunity: 8 • Three Nations’ Devout (Mexican Chocolate): 8 • White Rock Brewing Co.’s White Rock IPA: 8 • Collective Brewing Project’s Cup O’ Sumpin Raspberry Lemonade: 8. • Texas Ale Project’s Smash Experiment: 8. • Armadillo Ale Works’ Greenbelt Farmhouse Ale: 8. • Hop & Sting Brewing Company’s Dixon’s Dunkelweizen: 8. • Cedar Creek Brewery’s Gone A-Rye: 8. • Panther Island’s Road Trip Snacks: 8. • Community’s Texas Helles: 8. • Pegasus City Brewery’s Don Law Brown Ale: 8. • On Rotation’s Moar Blackberry: 8. • Peticolas Brewing Company’s Worth the Wait: 8. • Franconia’s Silver Star Bock: 8 • Manhattan Project Beer Co.’s Oktoberfest: 8. • Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s Paleta de Mango: 8. • Peticolas Brewing Company’s Doctor’s Orders: 8. • Hop & Sting Brewing Company’s Galactic Haze: 8. • Lakewood’s Thread Spinner: 8. • Bishop Cider Co.’s Sour Cherry: 8. • Texas Ale Project 50 Ft. Jackrabbit: 8. • Cedar Creek Brewery’s Gone A-Rye: 8. • Pegasus City Brewing’ Nine Volt: 8. • Texas Ale Project’s Payne Pils: 8. • Noble Rey’s Bridesmaid’s Tears: 8. • Collective Brewing’s Urban Funk House: 8. • Pegasus City Brewery’s Cannoneer: 8. • Pegasus City Brewery’s Sixth Floor: 8. • Lakewood’s All Call: 8. • Windmills Brewery’s Cole’s Porter: 8. • Oak Highlands’ Golden Mustache: 8. • 903 Brewers’ Crackin’ Up: 8. • Deep Ellum’s Play Date: 8. • Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s 11th Anniversary Russian Imperial Stout: 8. • Bitter Sisters’ Belgian Tripel: 8. • Noble Rey’s SteamPunk: 8. • 903 Brewers’ Citra On Top: 8. • 3 Nations’ Switchyard: 8. • TUPPS’ DDH IPA Series 16: 8. • Bitter Sisters’ Hissy Fit: 8. • BrainDead’s Gritz: 8. • Community’s Barrel-Aged Inspiration : 8. • Cedar Creek’s Fisticuffs: 8. • Lakewood’s Punkel: 8. • Four Corners’ El Chingon IPA: 8. • New Main Brewing’s Thundersnow: 8. • Martin House’s Day Break: 8. • Deep Ellum’s GOURDzilla: 8. • Peticolas’ The Duke (Aged 12 Months): 8. • Deep Ellum’s Neato Bandito: 8. • Steam Theory’s Hops Against Humanity: 8 • Revolver’s Bock: 8. • 903 Brewers’ Sasquatch: 8. • Peticolas’ Wintervention: 8. • Division Brewing’s Distant Cousin: 8. • Armadillo Ale Works’ Brunch Money: 8. • Martin House’s Salsa Verde: 8. • Cedar Creek’s Spinning Mule Robust Porter: 8. • Lakewood’s Holiday Bonus: 8. • Lakewood’s Hop Trapp: 8. • Pegasus City Brewery’s The Woofus: 7.75 • Four Corners Brewing Company Homie Brew: 7.75. • Community Beer Company’s Snickerdoodle: 7.75. • Pegasus City Brewery’s High Point: 7.75. • Cedar Creek’s Grapefruit Haze: 7.75. • Martin House Brewing’s Big Hoppa: 7.75. • TUPPS Full Grown Man: 7.75. • 3 Nations American Wit: 7.75. • Armadillo Ale Works’ Dapper Apple: 7.75. • 903 Brewers’ Kilt Switch: 7.5. • Turning Point Beer’s Bockstreet Boys: 7.5. • Chimera Dirty Dog: 7.5. • 3 Nations Brewing Company’s Imperial Milk Stout: 7.5. • Legal Draft’s Accused Amber Lager: 7.5. • Grapevine’s Reserve Tart Cherry Berliner Weisse: 7.5. • Martin House’s Stars Above: 7.5. • Odd Muse Brewing Company’s Opulence (We Has It): 7.5 • Noble Rey Brewing Company’s Frooty Tang: 7.5. • Martin House Brewing’s Pretzel Stout: 7.5. • Grapevine’s Prickly Pear Wheat Ale: 7.5. • Texas Ale Project’s Good To Go: 7.5. • Bitter Sisters’ Knock Out: 7.5. • Four Corners’ Notorious O.A.T.: 7.5. • Noble Rey Golden Rey With Raspberries and Ginger: 7.5. • On Rotation Saved By The Belma: 7.5. • True Vine’s Unicorn’s Revenge: 7.5. • Four Bullets Brewery’s Royal Flush: 7.5. • Deep Ellum’s Hop Seeker: 7.5. • Four Corners’ El Super Bee: 7.5. • TUPPS’ Full Grown Jack: 7.5. • Lakewood’s Hopochondria: 7.5. • Three Nations GPA: 7.5. • Martin House’s Rubberneck Red: 7.5. • Lakewood’s Antigoon’s Revenge: 7.5. • Community’s Texas Pils: 7.5. • Lakewood’s Zomer Pils: 7.5. • Cedar Creek’s Dankosaurus: 7.5. • Cedar Creek Brewery Clover Kicker: 7.25. • Noble Rey Sex In A Canoe: 7.25. • Legal Draft Beer Company Free & Clear: 7.25. • Oak Highlands Brewery’s Oktoberfest.: 7.25. • Westlake Brewing Company’s Y’All Star IPA: 7. • Wild Acre Brewing Company’s Snap’D: 7. • Panther Island Brewing’s Cannonball 7. • Noble Rey’s European Vacation: 7 • Unlawful Assembly’s Public Dissent: 7. • Deep Ellum Rye Pils: 7. • Union Bear’s Amber Red Ale: 7. • Turning Point Beer’s Silent Treatment: 7. • Wild Acre Brewing Company’s Ranch Style: 7. • 3 Nations Mango SMASH IPA: 7. • Legal Draft Chief Justice Stout: 7. • Texas Ale Project’s Pantera Golden Ale: 7. • Legal Draft’s Black Letter Law: 7. • Noble Rey Brewing Company’s Mother Night: 7. • TUPPS Brewery’s Imperial Saison: 7. • Manhattan Project’s Plutonium-239: 7. • Panther Island Brewing’s Sweet Fang: 7. • Backcountry’s Texas IPA: 7. • Shannon Brewing Co.’s Lucha Libre Mexican Lager: 7. • Backcountry’s Double IPA: 7. • Wild Acre Brewing Company’s Billy Jenkins: 7. • Pegasus City Brewery’s Great Hall Hefe: 7. • Rahr’s Visionary: 7. • Shannon Brewing’s Irish Cream Ale: 7. • Oak Highlands’ Guava Good: 7. • TUPPS Brewery’ Northbound 75: 7. • Rahr & Sons’ Iron Joe: 7. • BrainDead’s I Like Harvey IPA: 7. • Martin House’s Turtle Power: 7. • Three Nations Brewing Co.’s Texas Gold Chili Lime: 7. • Collective’s Petite Golden Sour: 7. • Shannon’s Chocolate Stout: 7. • Trinity Forest Brewing Company’s Blonde Ale: 7. • BrainDead’s Red Ale: 7. • Community’s Razzy Raspberry Witbier: 7. • Martin House’s Gateway Blonde Ale: 7. • Bearded Eel’s Purple Unicorn: 7. • Noble Rey’s Off The Leash: 7. • Shannon Brewing Company’s Irish Red: 7. • Texas Ale Project’s Somethin’ Shady: 7. • Deep Ellum IPA: 7. • Cedar Creek’s The Lawn Ranger: 7. • Martin House Brewing Company’s Cellarman’s Reserve IPA (Amarillo).: 7. • Lakewood’s Till & Toil: 7. • Armadillo Ale Works’ Town Squared: 7. • 903 Brewers’ The Chosen One: 7. • 903 Brewers’ Sugar On Top: 7. • Martin House’s Gateway XPA: 7. • Armadillo Ale Work’s Quakertown Stout: 7. • Revolver’s High Brass: 7. • Community’s Pale Ale: 7. • Oak Highlands’ Chump Change: 7. • Shanning Brewing Co.’s Mór IPA: 7. • Martin House’s River House: 7. • Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Sir William’s Brown Ale: 7. • Community’s Funnel Cake Ale: 7. • Audacity’s Boss Raptor IPA: 7. • Hop & Sting Brewing Co.’s Fire Engine Red: 7 • Texas Ale Project’s Hawaiian Roadrunner: 6.75. • Whistle Post’s Shoofly Coconut Lime Ale: 6.75. • Community Brewing Company’s Silly Gose: 6.75 • HopFusion Ale Works’ Feisty Blonde: 6.75 • Martin House’s Queen of the Mist (Prickly Pear): 6.75. • Armadillo Ale Works Land Yacht IPA: 6.5 • Three Nations Texas Xmas Hazelnut Ale: 6.5. • Texas Ale Project’s Texas Blood: 6.5 • Martin House’s The Juice: 6.5. •  Siren Rock Brewing Co’s The Prima Diva: 6.5 • Collective Brewing Project’s Mom Azacca: 6.5. • Four Corners’ La Lechuza: 6.5. • Revolver’s Ironhead IPA: 6.5. • 903 Brewers’ Trot Line: 6.5. • Four Corners’ Celebración: 6.5. • Peticolas’ Operation Collaboration: 6.5. • Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s Pumpkin Ale: 6.5. • Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Nightwatch: 6.5. • Peticolas’ The Duke: 6.5. • Celestial Beerworks’ Topwater Buzz: 6.5. • Deep Ellum’s Double Brown Stout : 6.5. • Cedar Creek’s Maui Wowie: 6.25. • On Rotation’s Mexican Barleywine: 6.25. • Thirsty Bro Brewing Co.’s Sweet Cherry Blonde: 6 • On Rotation’s Darjeeling Tea Session Ale: 6. • Wild Acre’s Tarantula Hawk: 6. • Martin House’s Kafkaesque: 6. • TUPPS’ Cotton Mill Gold: 6. • Martin House’s Melted: Salted Caramel & Waffle Cone Ice Cream Ale: 6. • Brutal Beerworks’ Mother Heffer: 6. • Four Bullets’ All In IPA: 6. • Rollertown Beerwork’s Rollertown Light: 6. • Rabbit Hole’s Tweedleyum: 6. • Rabbit Hole’s Off With Your Red: 6. • Legal Draft’s Legal Holiday: 6. • Rahr & Sons’ Angry Santa: 6. • Cedar Creek’s Elliott’s Phoned Home Pale Ale: 6 • Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Lakefire: 6 • Armadillo Ale Works’ WunderMelon: 6 • Cobra Brewing Company’s Dawn of the Dank: 6 • Deep Ellum Pale Ale: 6 • Lakewood’s Troll Toll: 5.5. • Martin House’s Hell Below: 5.5. • Lakewood’s La Dame Du Lac: 5.5. • Martin House’s Best Maid Sour Pickle Beer: 5. • TUPPS Brewery’s Imperial Pastry Sour Ale: 5. • Woodcreek’s Lakeside Cerveza: 5. • Legal Draft Beer Company’s Smash & Grab IPA: 5. • Martin House Cuvee Pumpkin Latte: 5. • Intrinsic’s Crunktoberfest: 5. • Martin House’s Mind On My Money: 5. • 903 Brewers’ The Land Of Milk And Honey: 5. • Deep Ellum’s Numb Comfort: 5. • TUPPS’ Day Off: 4.75. • 3 Nations’ Lady Luck Horchata Ale: 4.5. • Four Bullets’ Black Jack Brown: 4.5. • Audacity’s Checkered Past: 4. • Four Corners Heart O’ Texas: 4. • Audacity’s Sunset Boulevard: 4. • Bitter Sisters’ Hot Temper: 4. • Shannon Brewing Company’s IPA: 4. • Grapevine’s Monarch: 4. • TUPPS’ Cotton Candy Shandy: 4. • Good Neighbor Brews’ Slim Sweetness: 3. • Good Neighbor Brews’ O’Carrol’s Irish Red: 3. • Twin Peaks’ Dirty Blonde: 3. • Franconia Wheat: 3. • 903 Brewers’ Mythical Creatures: 2.5. • Miller Lite: 1.